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The Call of Coya

On any given sun-drenched afternoon in the capital, a Peruvian siren may beckon you to come sit, dine, chat, and revel. Warning! Reading this might make you hungry.

On Al Maryah Island, glamour reigns, and Coya might be queen with its sunny terrace, soundtrack, and irresistible menu. #YallaEats suggests that you spend many an afternoon on this terrace while the weather is still fine.

There’s no shortage of good ceviche in the capital, but Coya has got something special going on. We dove into spectacular starters which showcased why Coya is an internationally renowned restaurant. Let’s start with the ceviche. We sampled the Sea bream Criollo ceviche – a signature dish and you can taste why — it’s sublime! The mix of sea bass, red onions, sweet and fleshy white corn was steeped in a sharp tiger’s milk. We loved its smooth texture with just the right amount of tang.

Tableside guacamole was also a star of the starters. Piquant and citrusy, this dip beckons diners to polish off a heaping bowl of warm tortilla chips. There was also an unusual burrata salad, which was nice but felt a bit adrift alongside the Peruvian fare.

Starters done, we moved on to mains. First out the door was the salmon tacos, which were crispy little treats with perfectly prepared fish as well as a lovely Frutos del Mar. The whole grilled seabream was sensational – beautifully seasoned, melt-in-the-mouth fish. The fish was rubbed with a mildly spicy masala, which give the seabream a lovely kick. This dish was by far a table favourite and could be eaten every day of the week.

Surprisingly, the super healthy kale salad served with the mains was also a hit. Its sprinkling of shredded Manchego cheese made the superstar greens feel just a bit naughty, and its dressing was perfect.

For those of you who don’t have to dash back to their office on the island, special emphasis has been put on handcrafted beverages, with an inspired mocktail selection. We sampled a refreshing passionfruit mocktail, which was as light as it was tangy, just like the rest of the meal.

Yalla has had some pretty decent Peruvian meals in the UAE, but Coya has a certain magic. Few venues get that mix of exclusivity and opulence down and still manage to make diners feel welcome. Coya reigns on the crowded Al Maryah Island dining scene.

Coya, Al Maryah Island, Coyarestaurant.com/abu-dhabi

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